Our kits are complete. Everything needed is included. No additional components need be purchased. The plaster mold on which the model's hull will be built is included in every kit. Adhesives, paints and tools are not, of course, provided. Extra lumber may be purchased to build additional models on the plaster molds. (See our price list for more information.) What follows is a brief overview of the Kammerlander construction process. The pictures and text presented on these pages provide a basic understanding of how all our models are built. Each kit provides much more detailed information.
FRAMING: Attach the transom (pre-shaped end of boat) to the plaster mold using pins or small tacks. Overhang on hull edges must be equal. The formed keel is placed on the center of the plaster mold. The bow of the keel is inserted into the hole at the front of the plaster mold. A fingernail clipper can be used to point the wood to fit, if necessary. Tacks or rubber bands hold the keel in place. A drop of thick CA glue bonds the keel to the transom. (When the hot iron tip is pressed to the joint, heat and pressure "set" the bond.) Notches are filed into the keel at the points where the frames will cross over. Notch size is determined by the thickness and width of the frame - no more, no less. Frame timber is soaked in cold water. (5-10 minutes is usually enough.) A frame is placed into a hole o the bass of the mold. The frame is bent over the keel down to the opposite side. The frame is cut to length. (Cutting to the middle of the base of the mold is about right.) A drop of CA is placed in the notch. The frame is laid over the notch. The hot iron is used to set the CA with heat and pressure. Then, the frame is "ironed" down into the holes on each side. (It's important to press and heat the wood into shape-especially at the keel and on the mold) The frames and keel must fit the mold exactly; again, the area at the keel is especially important. All timber must "sit' perfectly on the plaster mold. Wetting again with a brush and working with tweezers helps.
The procedure is continued until all frames are in place. The forward edge of the keelson is sanded off at the bow (front) where it curves up (becoming the stem). The second formed keel is glued in place on top of the first. Heat and pressure from the iron set the CA. (The sanded off beveled edges at the bow, i.e. stem, now forms a rabbet or groove for the planking.)
PLANKING: The initial plank at the wales on both sides is very important. To start, planking timber is soaked in cold water. (5-10 mins.) The soaked plank is tapered using a cutting blade. (Our # 3009 is ideal). Plank ends are tapered about a third of the way from the ends, both front and back. There is no hard and fast rule for the amount of taper. What looks good, IS good. A dot of CA is applied to each frame at the wale of the boat. (This is the "bottom" with the model resting keel-up on the plaster mold.) The plank is set in place, working frame to frame, on the wale line (edge). Heat and pressure from the iron sets the bond at each frame. Planking is done alternately, side to side. One plank on one side, another plank on the other. After two or three planks are bonded in place on each side, the entire structure is removed from the plaster mold. Lifting is done carefully at front and back. Plaster that sticks to the structure is cleaned off. The structure is returned to the plaster mold. Planking continues.
Kammerlander models are extremely easy to build. However, it is very difficult - if not impossible - to build these authentic true-to-scale plank-on-frame models using techniques other than the one described here. Again, our kits contain detailed instructions, (more detailed than what you see here in the catalog) along with building tips and hints.